Granada, Spain

Like something out of a fairytale, the Alhambra sits in her majestic gardens gazing out over the population of Granada. Even in the rain, with soggy ice blocks for feet, the palace compound is one of the most exquisite examples of Arab-Islamic architecture that I have ever seen. Although I must admit that I am quite the sucker for fountained courtyards, endless colourful gardens and intricate designs. And to think that it was abandoned and left for dead for centuries. Granada on the other hand, has a vibey, youthful heart and seems to be the world centre for raucous, costumed pre-wedding parties...? Far from being a tacky touristy destination though, the city maintains her elegance at her noble altitude (738m), framed by the striking, snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains.

 

Gaudì's playground

I like Barcelona's open-mindedness. She doesn’t follow the dress code of other cities. Architectural expression (and indeed most forms of individuality, creativity and general mind-blowing interesting-ness, if you will) has been given a playground of opportunity to produce mud castles and fish scale buildings that defy characterization by any traditional definition. Gaudì must have been in his element.

Córdoba, Spain

Once upon a time I had an incredible history teacher called Mr. Ullman, who inspired his Islamic Studies students with his sheer fascination, knowledge and enthusiasm for the eccentricities left behind on the fluctuating frontlines of where east met west. I spent hours doodling the designs projected in that dark classroom including one particularly poignant image of red, striped double arches that haunted my notes for many months. So when I entered Córdoba’s Mezquita, I unexpectedly stepped back in time into Mr. Ullman’s classroom and saw the very real and mind-blowing interior of the Great Mosque with its misplaced cathedral emerging from the heart of that sacred place. And this strange overlap of cultures, religions and architectural styles is a theme that extends through the narrow curled streets of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. I floated around the ancient town and its charming Jewish quarter utterly enchanted by the strange mixture of listening to gypsy flamenco and eating ingredients once brought from the Americas in Arab courtyards filled with colourful geraniums, orange trees and Christian shrines.

I would like to acknowledge the patience of my friend, Alessio and thank him for leaving me to get swept up in the inspiration and magic of the city... and take 1000 photographs.

Alberobello, Italy

Neatly placed in the heel of the Italian boot, Alberobello is a bizarre town that looks like it was built by garden gnomes. The historical centre of the town consists almost exclusively of 'trulli' making it an attractive UNESCO World Heritage Site. While these stone huts are charming and fascinating, the town itself is terribly touristy and vibeless.

Fes, Morocco

The Fas el Bali is one of the most fascinating places I have ever been. It was everything I was hoping it would be: complicated alleys, unexpected bursts of colour, secretive terraces, authentic lifestyles and incomprehensible chaos. It didn't take much to get off the well-beaten tourist path, but it did take a lot to convince our little troop of wannabe guides that we had no end-goal, indeed we wanted to be lost. The young entrepreneurs begged (in a surprising array of languages) to show us where we were going, or even where we had come from if that was what we desired. Eventually we had to succumb to the offers of help to find the well-hidden leather tanneries. 

Rhodes, Greece

Rhodes is one of those places that I suspect of jealously guarding some dangerously glorious secret. And some secret it must be to have been desired, conquered, adored, burnt, bombed and sieged so many times in its complicated history. It has changed hands between the ancient Greek civilisation (it was once home to one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Rhodes Colossus), the Romans, the Byzantines, the Knights Hospitallers, the Ottomans and even the Italians had a go at making it a colony. Her glory days recorded in history books, the town now rests in retirement as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The sun-washed town has a door for every aspect of her personality.

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik, the pearl of the Adriatic, certainly is enchanting. Sitting on the narrow cement terraces of Buza Bar, I could almost expect sirens to start gossiping on the rocks below me or a giant squid (I’ve heard they hang out in the Med) to crawl over one of the islands in search of a light evening snack. Instead, a pirate ship of notable proportions appeared out of the setting sun and came cruising past the astounded Buza customers. Not a soul was seen onboard and as quickly as it appeared, the ship was gone, leaving us all laughing nervously and wondering if it had been a puza-induced mirage. I didn’t know it then, but that was one of the most genuine experiences I had in the old city. Dubrovnik is picture perfect with its red roofs and white stone streets polished by years of activity, and yet it feels like Disneyland. Cruise ships unload strident tourists to eat gelato and sell their children to pay for a beer. Don’t get me wrong, the Venetian influenced architecture, the intriguing narrow maze of streets, and the glorious simplicity of the colour scheme (stone on stone) are certainly worth a visit. Twenty four hours is more than enough. A minute longer and you start to wonder where the real people are and why every building is empty except for a foreign name on the doorbell. I can’t help but wonder has Dubrovnik sold its soul?

Take a look at my article published on the Getaway Travel Blog: Has Dubrovnik sold its soul?